IMPORTANT NOTE: (November 2006) This
website is only rarely maintained or updated. The information
contained within these pages may be very out-of-date or inaccurate.
Situations, environments, and people change over time. On a personal
note, I am climbing very little at this point in my life, and I even
go for very long periods of time without checking the email sent to
the address below. If you still choose to write to me, please do not
expect me to reply quickly (or possibly ever). Please just take
whatever information from this site that you find useful and enjoy
your rock climbing experiences.
"home" crag--Devil's Lake, Wisconsin
There are way too many great routes at DL.
It's worth a stop on anyone's road trip. If you aren't used to slick
quartzite, start out conservatively and be really careful if you
place cams. The routes are short (up to 90') and steep to
overhanging. Toproping is the norm since all of the routes can be
toproped and lots of routes are unprotectable (without bolts, of
which there are very few; please don't even think of adding more).
This is a climber's playground, but beware of the underrating
prevalent at this crag. It has been said that every route rating at
Devil's Lake is a sandbag. The ratings below are from the Climber's
Guide to Devil's Lake, and you'll want a guidebook if you climb
there. All of these routes are highly recommended, and there are
plenty of other great routes to keep you busy for a very long time.
- Recommended easier routes:
- Double Overhang 5.4, Lost Face 5.6, Full Stop
5.6 [pic], Push-Mi Pull-Yu
5.6, Briton's Crack 5.6, Cleopatra's Needle 5.6, Vacillation 5.7,
Peter's Project 5.7, Birthday Crack 5.7, Orgasm 5.8, Last Gasp 5.8,
Queen's Face 5.8, Birch Tree Crack 5.8 (one move wonder) [pic], Impossible Crack 5.8,
Watermarks 5.8, Chicago 5.8 (one of the hardest 5.8's you'll ever
- Recommended mid-grade routes:
- Upper Diagonal 5.9, Peter's Project Right Side
5.9, TM Overhang 5.9+, Stretcher 5.9+/10a, Callipigeanous Crack 5.10a,
Resurrection 5.10a, Mouse's Misery 5.10a, Sometime Crack 5.10a [pics], Congratulations 5.10a,
Death Leap 2000 5.10b (a contrived climb, but what a fun dyno), The End
Direct 5.10b, Mouse Tracks 5.11a (just because it's got that great
- Recommended harder routes: I don't do harder
routes! But there are plenty of them on up into the 5.13 range.
I've climbed: [pics][wallpaper]
- After Six 5.6 -a fun
route at the grade; popular.
- The Grack-Center 5.6 [pics] -crack climbing on a low angle
slab; classic. (Warning: high rock fall potential on Glacier Point
- Great White Book 5.6,
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolumne Meadows [pics] -popular climb in a big
dihedral with long runouts (unless you have some very wide cams).
- Munginella 5.6
-another popular "easy" route. Make sure you do the third pitch on the
original route and don't use the alternate to the left. Actually I
recommend avoiding any variations; it's a fun climb in it's original
- Snake Dike 5.7 [beta][topo][pics] -lots of easy runout between
bolts on a beautiful, long route with a fantastic finish on top of Half
- Royal Arches Route
5.7 C1 [pics][tr/beta] -classic long route (17
pitches) from the floor of Yosemite Valley to the rim.
- After Seven 5.8
-might as well do it while you're in the area.
- South Crack 5.8,
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolumne [pics]
-the pitch 3 runout 5.7 friction really scared me at the time,
especially when 60 feet out past my last piece and off route!
- Nutcracker 5.8 &
5.9 variation [pic] -climbed this
fantastic route twice, but take a number 'cause it's popular.
- Bishop's Terrace 5.8
-I did the alternate 5.7 offwidth on the first pitch (to the right);
don't do it! Unless you have some reason to want to climb offwidth
without any pro above a ledge for you to fall on and kill yourself,
it's not a good idea. Sweet climb otherwise.
- C.S. Concerto via
Fecophilia start 5.9 [pic]
-Fecophilia is runout to the first bolt on friction climbing and then
you run it out some more; CS Concerto is runout as well but easier
- Church Bowl Tree 5.10b
-actually we stopped at the bolts just after the 5.10a lower section;
that was one greasy climb!
- South Face of Washington Column 5.8 C2 [pics][tr/beta] -classic Grade V big wall.
- Pitches one and two of the Prow
of Washington Column C2 [pics] -bailed on a solo attempt.
- First pitch of Half Dome
NW Reg. Route C1[pics][logos]
-ok, so we were some of the many that bailed on the first try. Will I
ever go back? Who knows?
Other places I've visited
and routes I can recommend:
- Gibraltar Rock,
Wisconsin (still closed to
- Mother Bear 5.7, Locomotive 5.8 (a 5.8 with
everything!), The Unknown Bolt Route 5.8, Dave's Dive 5.8, It's the End
of the World 5.9, Several Species of Small Furry Animals 5.10a
- Grand Ledge, Michigan
- A very small sandstone river cut. There are a
few difficult routes as well as easier grade climbs. The rock is soft,
and the climbing is basically toproping. Only worth the trip if you
live nearby and have no other alternative. (Since I had no guide book,
I can't make any route recommendations.)
- Eldorado Canyon,
- Bastille 5.7, Anthill Direct 5.8+
- Vedauwoo, Wyoming [pics] (another climbers playground
right off of Interstate 80)
- Edward's Crack 5.6, Cold Fingers 5.7, MRC
Direct 5.8+, "5.11 Crack" 5.9, Fall Wall 5.9+, Gunga Dien 5.11a
- Red River Gorge,
- Double Caves Crack 5.3, Crackadile 5.6, C
Sharp or B Flat 5.7, Roadside Attraction 5.7, The Shiner 5.7(?), Face
Up to That Crack 5.8-, Mr. Bungle 5.8+, Brother Stair 5.9, Jump for Joy
5.9+, To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a
- Mount Woodson,
- Another one of those rough granite bouldering
areas in southern California.
- Lark Canyon Boulders,
McCain Valley Recreation Area, California [pics]
- A bouldering area east of San Diego. Worth the
trip if you are already in the area.
- Joshua Tree National Park, California
- I won't even attempt to talk about Joshua Tree
after only one trip to one of its areas (Indian Cove). Find a site
dedicated to it if you want information. Great climbing!
- Mission Gorge, San
- I only did a little soloing and toproping
while there. Nice crag for San Diego climbers.
web site has been created by a non-professional rock climber and is
intended solely for the purpose of entertainment. Any information or
opinion expressed on this site is subject to error. Using the
information presented on this site could get you hurt or killed. You
are ultimately responsible for your own safety, and you bear the
responsibility to accurately assess and to appropriately use any
information presented on this site. In simple English: don't blame
me for any trouble you get yourself into.
1996-2009, Ron Heinsman, all rights reserved)